Day 3

We slept pretty well last night. Made a point of getting up earlier today, just shortly after sunrise and it was probably around 6:30 am. The cows were gathered in the road near our tent, watching from a safe distance. It seemed they were trying to be nonchalant, cooly observing, then making eye contact, then shyly looking away. Luc took some good video.

A little more optimism about today's ride, because we've only got 17 km planned, and our destination is a special place we'd camped at 3 years before. For breakfast, there's a fruit bar, some almonds, and a pita with nutella.

We set out and, early in the ride, we come upon the last private homestead before we get back onto park lands. We were low on water and one resident was kind enough to fill up a couple of our water bottles for us.


Back on the road and a steep ascent led us into the North Gillespie block of the park. We'd heard from park officials and some locals that the road might be rough due to some very dense and tall yellow clover that had grown up through the wet summer. We were pleased to find the road and 'shoulder' had been mowed, and so although the road might be tough for a vehicle - with two deep tire tracks and a raised centre - it was ideal for two bikers! The road led us along a fairly level, high altitude course that traced the edge of a ridge that slopes down into the Frenchman River valley. The road was a ways back from the edge but here and there we could see the valley sprawling below. We didn't see much wildlife on this day, just some hawks, grasshoppers and a small snake.

We arrived at our destination around 11 am.

This 'destination' is a high point in the ridge at the edge of the valley, and has sweeping views of the whole of South Gillespie. It is within sight, about 2 km, of the Montana border. We camped here 3 years ago on our trip across Canada and we loved it for the views and the sense of solitude we felt here. In this part of the park, there is no campground. Campsite choice is based on finding a flat place with no big rocks or cacti.

It is too hot to do much of anything, so we set up our fly on some tentpoles right at the edge of the ridge, and try to get comfortable in the semi-shade. There is a lovely breeze. Lunch is more jerky, granola bar, some nuts. We're getting sick of the dried food, and start to daydream about what food we want when we get back to civilization. For Allison it is a burger and icecream, for Luc, all he wants is a cold beer. We spend the afternoon doodling, journaling, taking video and talking.

We were visited by a Parks Canada employee who was mowing the road on a tractor. It was great to meet this local rancher who does seasonal work for the park, and hear his thoughts on the reclamation that is undertaken when the park aquires a new piece of land. He had some really positive views of the park and we enjoyed chatting with him.

Our afternoon was going great until our shelter was swarmed by flying red ants! At first they seemed harmless and they came and went without disrupting too much. Then they returned in greater numbers and nipped me! We were forced to evacuate and take a small hike. When we returned we had to set up our tent so we could seal ourselves in. How unfortunate! We missed out on the breeze but the rest of the afternoon passed quickly and soon we were taking pictures of the peachy glow on the hills and valley as the sun was getting low. It seems that the best way to view and especially to get photographs of this land is when the sun gets low in the sky and brings it into glowing three dimensions.

Not sure what all we ate for dinner. Probably a granola bar and some turkey pepperette. We did share a freeze-dried cookies and cream icecream sandwhich, astronaut style! This was a novelty but actually tasted like the real thing.

When the sun was setting we took a short walk to get some more pictures. Later and back at the tent, just as the sun sets, Luc lets me know he thinks we should get married. Wow! (Sorry to bust this on you if you thought you were just reading this for tips on biking trips in Grasslands National Park!) Of course I agreed, and blah blah blah, tears and sappiness ensued. It was a perfect end to great day spent at one of our favourite places.